Huishan Zhang had dark romance, heartbreak – and resilient women – in mind for this collection that was heavy on velvet and lace, pleats and classic shapes, all with the designer’s signature feminine edge.

Black lace dripped from trouser hems, the edges of a black shearling coat and a dark green eco-leather dress, and popped around the collar and cuffs of a teal satin bomber.

Puffs of feathers on long dresses and an iridescent dark green fabric for a tiered dress gave the collection a Victorian edge, as did the white cotton lace tops with pouf shoulders.

Zhang also worked tweed into a variety of looks, such as tops with shredded edges, a snappy jacket with a white shearling peplum and dresses with velvet straps or sheer black sleeves. Pleats played a big role, too, appearing in the pink side panels of a trench coatdress or on wide trousers done in cotton or eco-leather.

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