Japanese manga comics, the slightly haughty attitude of Lucille Fay LeSueur before becoming Joan Crawford, the Twenties atmosphere of the German TV series “Babylon Berlin” and the Far East aesthetic of Park Chan-Wook’s “The Handmaiden” movie. These quite broad and varied influences converged in Antonio Berardi’s beautiful pre-fall collection which, while reflecting the designer’s hyper-sophisticated style also exuded a new, more functional approach.
Tiny studs and drawstrings injected a utilitarian vibe into the outerwear, including roomy anoraks, parkas and coats with kimono-inspired ample sleeves, crafted from a rich, multicolor jacquard and felted wool. Chunky sweaters, worked in bold tones of electric blue and bright green, featured feminine ergonomic silhouettes and the shirts, worn with pants embellished with utility pockets, revealed sculptural plissé details on the back.
A versatile allure also informed the eveningwear with the fluid long dresses featuring adaptable shapes, enabling women to show some skin or to embrace a more mysterious look. Charming tromp l’oeil effects were also introduced via the lace inserts that enriched the bodice of a chic velvet gown.
Berardi continues to occupy a unique spot on the international fashion scene with his meticulous study of constructions able to enhance the proportions of the feminine body, and personal and sophisticated aesthetic.