At Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, the “Highlands [Scottish region] meets glamour,” said the designer, explaining that he started the design process with “a sensation of textures.” Tartan was key in the collection, as in a blanket coat that was reversible, with a diagonal pattern on one side and checks on the other. With roomy Nineties volumes, Serafini said the coat really felt like “an enveloping blanket.”

Shapes were fluid, since Serafini said he liked the Philosophy woman “to have a carefree attitude – this is fundamental. She is more seductive when she does not know it and that’s what contributes to her irresistible glamour. And there is nothing less attractive or seductive than when you see someone that is not at ease in what they are wearing. That is terrible.”

Blouses with Victorian collars were worn under sweaters with flounces and Fair Isle inserts and over a mini skirt with lace trimmings and long and loose fishnet leggings, which added a youthful edge. Long, full skirts in techno jacquard and trimmed with flounces were worn under knits embroidered with flowers “that are a little Bloomsbury,” said Serafini.

While Serafini didn’t want to get too literal, saying “things are more beautiful when they are imagined,” one could easily envision a debutante in the ivory Empire waist gown with tiny flowers and black, loose velvet bands on the waist at a candlelit ball in a vast Scottish castle. Patterns harked back to antique wallpaper designs and the covers of books by decorative artist Talwin Morris. The collection was rich yet not overdone, since Serafini added a modern touch to the classic inspiration. “There is nothing retro or costume-like,” he stressed.

 

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