Fabrics were the starting point for Laura Vassar and Kris Brock’s pre-fall collection. The couple has a taste for the traditional, some might say old-fashioned even, tending toward taffeta, lace and an intense jacquard based on an old wallpaper dug up in the fabric library of one of their mills. Yet they balance their old-world romance with an eye for the now. Their signature corsetry was done with raw edges and undone cuts, cut in separates that could be worn with a skirt or layered over one of their fine knit ruffled dresses, or jeans. Working in ultralight cotton voile took the preciousness out of corseted gowns, giving them a sense of comfort and ease that one doesn’t typically associate with corsetry. They also upped their evening offering in silhouettes that felt more edgy and sophisticated compared to some of their flirtier work — a black long-sleeved embroidered slim tulle gown with an elaborate peplum and a similar silhouette in white lace that could easily wonder into bridal territory, a category that’s on the designers’ minds but not in their business plan yet.

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