For the past several seasons, Carolina Herrera has been making a concerted effort to infuse her distinct brand of polished, purposeful glamour with a refreshed sense of relaxation and unfussiness at times with uneven results. Pre-fall felt like progress toward her goal. The collection continued the bright color story she felt strongly about for spring, and delivered it on silhouettes that had far more modernist ease about them.

Flemish floral paintings inspired much of the palette and embellishments, including charming floral stitch work and embroideries that appeared on chicly tailored separates, such as a black blazer with lily of the valley embroidery on the cuffs, and a tailored ivory coat with floral details and subtle volume in the back worn over a black midi skirt. Gowns felt simplified and there was a noticeable uptick in relatively casual daywear, specifically denim and knits. Denim came as chiced-up indigo worked on refined silhouettes — a skirt, a tailored jacket and trousers that were most definitely not jeans — with rainbow top-stitching. A new focus on knitwear brought girlish cardigans and some lightweight languid striped pieces, including a maxi dress that felt very fresh for the brand, to the line.

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