Next fall will be Ulla Johnson’s 20th year in business, an anniversary that had her meditating on her brand identity, what drives her and makes her and her customers happy. “Obviously at the core of this business is this idea of something quite feminine and quite powerful,” she said, noting that the political climate had her thinking about women and power. “Why can’t feminine and beautiful and pretty be powerful and amazing and make you feel good?”

Johnson emboldened the traditionally prim polka dot, using it in a cool, self-possessed way on a printed blouse worn with a structured apron dress, as knit embroidery on sweaters that were girlish but not sweet; and structured denim. A poplin dress came in a vivid floral print. A Victorian blouse was cut on the spare side and worn with a utilitarian jumpsuit. She also bumped up the handwork for which she’s known on chunky, hand-knit fringed alpaca sweaters done with colorful Donegal flecks, bags made by Peruvian saddle makers and footwear inspired by classic Serbian opanci shoes.

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