Nostalgia for recently departed rock icons — from Prince and David Bowie to France’s Johnny Hallyday and France Gall — was the collection’s starting point. Guillaume Henry channeled the ”ambivalence” of the Nina Ricci woman — “You don’t really know if she’s day or night; if she’s shy or self-confident” — through the story line of someone waiting backstage, dressed to impress but with an everyday parka draped at the shoulders, or a cozy mohair knit.
Red was the headlining hue, mixed with deep purple. Pick-and-mixing elements from the wardrobe, Henry paired the house’s signature mannish peacoat with a long silk cady and viscose dress with an open neckline and a fringed hem with swing, or layered a vinyl vest spewing fake pink Mongolian fur over a men’s-inspired shirt in an allover logo print.
In the mix were asymmetric knits, a chintz purple velvet flared tuxedo suit with a structured shoulder, a raw-edge camisole with strass straps that can be layered over a shirt or a pajama pant, and a cute silk crepe bi-color plisse mini with a sweatshirt cut and a dash of strass at the neckline. Cowboy boots finished off the look.
For the collection’s “bisou” print, Henry asked members of his studio team to kiss the fabric.
The season also marks the launch of what Henry termed as the house’s first handbag — “as opposed to an accessory used to accessorize the collection” — dubbed the NR.