For the nylon coats in graphic white-and-red hand-stitched hemp leaf motifs in the main Black line, Yohji Yamamoto appropriated a functional technique as embellishment, using Sashiko, a Japanese stitch originating in the early 16th century, and traditionally used to reinforce points of wear to make fabrics more resistant, or to stitch two or more fabrics together. It worked best as placement motifs in silver thread depicting animals — a fallen rabbit or a frog, say — this time nodding to a tradition dating back to the 12th century dubbed Chōjū-giga, and seen as the origins of Japanese manga.

Highlights from Y’s Pink line included a single-button coat in a vintage fabric originally destined for obi sashes, combining a minimalist cut and rich pattern.

The offer from the brand’s casual line, Rismat, was ever compelling, especially new spins on the signature hybrid cardigan-sweaters and the bi-material pants in black cotton and jersey, as an understated design statement.

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