Roksanda Ilincic was in full artistic flow, tapping into the generous, colorful brushstrokes of Helen Frankenthaler, the American abstract Expressionist painter. The designer said she loved the artist’s freedom of movement, which inspired her to place a delicately ruffled panel down the front of a long dress, and a rippling hem on a shorter, sleeveless one, imitating Frankenthaler’s brush strokes.
Long silk ribbons fell like thick drips of paint down the fronts of dresses in offbeat combinations such as chocolate and aqua, and mauve and tomato while look book models also embraced the season’s arty theme, adopting fluid, sculptural poses, bending and twisting more like yogis or ballerinas than models.
Texture was another big feature, with geometric fabric shapes — some iced with sequins — clustered onto the necks or hems of long dresses. One gown, in Bellini pink, was covered in those geometric shapes and had a charmingly off-kilter tulle panel at the bottom.
Long, pleated dresses and skirts revealed Cubist pot patterns and shapes when their folds were opened, and those same patterns surfaced on the inside and outside of a long, sculptural jacquard skirt and matching cape coat.
There were simpler, spare silhouettes, too, in the form of a long golden-orange dress with one sleeve and a smart lineup of suits with pinched waists and slightly exaggerated shoulders. Coats were enveloping, blanket and robe-like and meant to enclose all of the designer’s dramatic, sculptural silhouettes.