Huishan Zhang watched Wong Kar-Wai’s stylish films — “Chungking Express” and “2046” — and based his sophisticated fall collection on the director’s vision of dark romance.
The show opened with femme fatales all in black, a welcome dark turn for Zhang. A high-neck top in sparkly sheer mesh was modeled after cheongsams — a recurring motif in the show — and was tucked into a leather wrap skirt, glammed up by rows of jet bead fringing. A leather jacket hemmed with feathers came with pleated leather trousers — not an easy thing to make look elegant, but Zhang pulled it off.
A full skirt in patent leather, cut open to show an underlying mini, had a fun youthful appeal, vamped up by a sheer top. Shiny black leather trousers with peplum hips had broad appeal — more than the jarring one-shouldered olive green knot bustier that topped a pink and silver jacquard ensemble.
Then the show show segued back to the fairy-tale romance that Zhang is known for: a bouclé tweed skirt suit fringed with white pearls carried with it the refinement of Rue Cambon, while a blossom jacquard in sugary shades came in full-skirted shapes played against pearlescent sequins.
Zhang’s brand of unapologetic opulence pulsed throughout. He has an established client base now and they lap it up.