Nicola Formichetti isn’t a sneaker designer but his skill lies not only in his social media fluency but his ability to take something familiar in pop culture and rework it into something fresh and accessible. Since his street wear brand Nicopanda launched in 2015, Formichetti’s authentic and articulate take on irreverent youth has enabled the label to grow rapidly.
Nostalgia for the Nineties and Aughts has dominated contemporary style for the past few seasons and for Nicopanda’s fall 2018 collection, Formichetti also referenced the era. He clashed very different musical genres together – Seattle grunge and East Coast hip hop – and based his collection on fusing and reworking street wear staples synonymous with the era.
“It’s a YouTube culture so you just go from one to another and it’s a beautiful mismatch,” he said after the show.
Formichetti knows exactly where street wear is in 2018. Set against the pounding soundtrack that remixed Nirvana’s “Nevermind” with Lil’ Kim’s debut album, the fun and energetic collection was heavy on prints – plaid, stripes, leopard and tartan, and textures – plastic, fur, jersey and sweats. There was also a whole lot of printed logo and slogan hoodies and tees in varying lengths. Plaid flannel was seen in different guises from jackets to ruffled skirts, glittering velour tracksuits were paired with barely-there mesh vest tops. Leopard leggings worn under skirts and shorts were seen throughout, as well as floppy fur buck hats and sloganed beanies.
Nicopanda also debuted its partnership legendary hip-hop and electronic music label Tommy Boy and several pieces from the collection featured the brand’s three-silhouette logo.