One of the constant joys of Milan Fashion Week is discovering venues off the beaten path — and there are many in this city famous for its hidden charms. Giada staged its fall show at the Braidense National Library, in a lesser-visited part of the Palazzo Brera, which houses one of the city’s main art museums.
There was a reason for the choice: the Italian label for the second season running donated two important historic documents to the institution.
With its ancient book spines and ornate chandeliers, the building provided an atmospheric backdrop to Gabriele Colangelo’s serene fall collection, which was inspired by the abstract paintings of Roi James and the bold iron sculptures of Amílcar de Castro.
That translated into soft geometric shapes, achieved through rounded shoulders and artful pleats on outfits made of materials like double cashmere, ultra-light sheepskin, baby alpaca and napa leather bonded with silk. “I like to have something that is very soft and light also in winter,” said the designer, who hails from a family of furriers.
A single crease curved down the front of a cocoon-like almond-colored cape coat, while a pale lilac coat or saturated navy jacket were gathered at the hip to inject curved volume into the sleeves. Colangelo inserted panels of pleated chiffon into a belted cashmere coat and a minimal wrap dress.
The sensual ripple of silk contrasted with the monastic cut of a dove gray asymmetric tunic, summing up the line’s understated appeal.