For fall, Paule Ka offered sequins, cashmere and lots of ivory, symbolic of the label’s transition. Founder Serge Cajfinger recently returned to provide guidance after ownership switched hands from a private equity owner to French businessman Xavier Marie.

The clothes were displayed in the Paris showroom on Rue Saint-Honoré, a contemporary mix of smart and cozy garments, with a measured dose of glamour. Diane Keaton was the reference for jackets carrying a double-breasted Eighties silhouette. Diana Ross was also cited. Double-sided sequins, shiny silver on one side, matte copper on the other, added texture to thigh-high boots and a sexy jumpsuit.

A splash of mustard yellow came in the form of a luxurious, velvet suit and pattern was provided by a panther jacquard. The sleekness of the clothing subdued the jazzier aspects, but that was partly the message: keep an eye out for what’s next. The label is expected to name a new designer as it marks its upcoming 30th anniversary this year.

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