Many Tokyo brands have become known for their bright colors, extreme detailing and outlandish designs. Hyke isn’t one of them. Designed by the duo of Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara, it specializes in meticulously constructed basics with subtle modern twists, created from some of the best textiles available.

This season Ode and Yoshihara chose to reimagine classic military styles, with a particular focus on outerwear. They updated bomber jackets in oversized shapes, with fur trim or in shearling turned inside out to show the fluffy ivory fleece. But the real stars of the collection were the gorgeous coats. From the most luxurious-looking melton wool were crafted peacoats, toggle coats, double-breasted coats and belted coats. The silhouettes were oversized, with sleeves in particular often extralong and puffy.

Worn under the outerwear were slim leather pants bunched at the ankles, pleated skirts with overlays in suiting fabric, houndstooth suit jackets, thigh-high shearling leggings, rib knit tunics and simple sleeveless dresses slit up to the navel in front. Everything was done in shades of navy, gray, olive, khaki and ivory, save for two bright orange puffy jackets, which resembled flight jackets turned inside out.

Hyke also showed items from its second season collaborating with The North Face. The puffer coats, rain jackets and nylon shrugs fit right in with the outerwear-focused collection.

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