Name: (X)SML

Main message: MIT graduate and former management consultant and investment banker Jun Mardian invested in (X)SML in 2010, leading him to helm what claims to be Indonesia’s largest fashion brand. For the label’s first participation during Tokyo Fashion Week, Mardian used men’s wear fabrics in mixed stripes and checks to create feminine tailored dresses, skirts and tops with details of gathering, ruffles and asymmetry. He added some sex appeal with sheer details, sky-high slits and shoulder-baring necklines. Men’s wear pieces were less imaginative, but made ample use of mixed, contrasting textiles.

The result: Even for a brand that’s new to the international fashion scene, the comparatively generous financial backing shows in the high quality of both the textiles and the designs.

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