Channeling traditional Japanese costumes, Stéphane Rolland’s frocks were impressive for all their sculptural folds and ornamentation, tricked out with lacquered tubes and obi-style bows. However, much like the bride’s cumbersome knitted satin dress that literally had to be dragged down the runway, a lot of the bigger gowns looked a little too stiff and heavy. The simpler pieces worked best — the slinky cape dresses and, notably, a striking long crystal gown dipped in black rubber at the bottom to resemble dripping paint.

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