Gustavo Lins riffed on his signature masculine-feminine aesthetic, balancing architectural lines with fluid draping, but it’s the more sensual, womanly side that won over. Set to a bossa nova soundtrack, the Brazilian designer rolled out a black-focused, after-dark wardrobe centered on deconstructed embroidered tuxedo jackets, printed halter-neck foulard dresses and tailored leather looks. Outerwear was also a key focus, ranging from a blue mink stole to a black pleated leather vest with kimono volumes that wrapped around the body. Despite Lins’ prowess at the cutting table, these clothes lacked some needed freshness in terms of fashion direction.

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