It takes a pretty skilled tailor to craft an overcoat out of a windsurf sail — not to mention 51 hours, according to Maison Martin Margiela’s show notes. The techy neon-orange garment was the show’s final look. It gave a fresh, energetic kick to the collection, living up to its promise of “anachronistic silhouettes,” with one foot in the past, the other in the now. Up to that point, the lineup, all of it accessorized with crystal masks, got a little mired in the something-old part. Vintage materials, from reworked lace (on pants, tuxedos, blouses) to a patchwork of baseball gloves (used for jackets), dominated the mood.
Though there were some great elements — tailored jackets in calico, an open-back blouse in a delightful Paul Poiret embroidery — the collection lacked the Margiela conceptual thrills of yesteryear.