There’s still magnificent vintage to be had, judging by the plethora of beautiful Twenties fabrics, original 19th-century embroideries and Fifties petticoats that Maison Martin Margiela sourced for its fall couture collection. The level of craftsmanship was impressive. A delicate Art Nouveau curtain, chain-stitched with floral motifs, looked terrific on a pink satin evening gown. The team found a Napoleon-era tieback in woven pearls and transformed it into the top of an alluring tuxedo ensemble that came with a black wool wrap skirt.

On the more playful side, voluminous suit jackets, recut from baby pink and blue Fifties prom dresses with vintage fabric flowers appliquéd along the hems, mixed kitsch with couture.
There was no shortage of rock either — marble to be precise. The house’s artisans embroidered white and green cabochons on a giant collar piece as well as a cropped bolero jacket. Worn on bare skin and matched with vintage denim pants, it was at once artistic and iconic Margiela.

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