The design team at Maison Martin Margiela clearly had some leftovers from last couture’s impressive collection built on vintage fabrics.

This season saw Second Empire lampas, a luxury fabric done with floral weaves, resurface on lean one-shouldered dresses and capelike columns that were sliced open on the side to reveal a bare leg. Bustier tops and diaphanous skirts were teamed with an embroidered lobster slung over the model’s shoulder in a not-so-subtle homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s fantasy couture.

Japanese embroidered bomber jackets from the Fifties, sourced at garage sales in New York and antique dealers in London, were extended into lean evening dresses, while the show’s highlight was a sleeveless dress sewn together from an assemblage of lifelike iris embroideries evoking Vincent van Gogh’s famous painting.

South Korean singer CL, who sat in the front row at the show and was scouting for original stage costumes, said even though she was looking for garments that allowed her to move freely, “for this, I would be happy to adjust.”



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