A string quartet’s upmarket version of grunge anthem “Smells Like Teen Spirit” set the tone at Jenni Kayne, where the designer riffed on the Nineties, yet still mixed in a sophisticated Thirties flair. But don’t get visions of Marc Jacobs. This was pure Kayne, full of polished flannel suits — worn slouchy, of course — and gorgeous floor-skimming skirts that were cut close to the body, paired with a crisp checked wool shirt or a drapy short-sleeve coat hemmed in fur.

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