A tin of Nivea cream. That and the childhood memories it evoked is what inspired Antonio Marras this season. On the runway, that translated into a vintagey thrift shop-military exercise. Out marched a parade of olive green cotton jackets that suggested uniforms, but Marras gave them the girly treatment, with haphazard applications of rosettes, lace patches, ribbons, gold embroidery and beading. They were paired with soft silk skirts or pencil-slim styles in wool. Marras also flexed his tailoring muscle with precision-cut pin-striped pantsuits, often embroidered, as well as egg-shaped coats. Esprit de corps, anyone?

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