After going on a thematic binge in his last few collections, Derek Lam is bringing everything back to the company’s roots. “We started with the traditional, iconic pieces,” said chief executive officer Claudio Castiglioni, “but reviewed the proportions.” He’s talking about the classic boxy D Bag, for one, which has a new soft and slouchy shape for fall. The driver loafers, meanwhile, are turning downright wild, embroidered in tiger, zebra and giraffe patterns. There’s also a soupçon of edginess tossed in: Countering the largely neutral palette of sands and browns are flashes of electric Eighties hues, as seen in the black ankle bootie with an elastic band of hot pink. As for the clothes, they worked the balance of polish and downtown chic deftly, too. For instance: the neoprene coat with patent leather trim or the quilted jacket with oversize funnel collars.
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