In his second outing at Fashion East, the group show of emerging designers, Michael van der Ham stuck to his formula of crafting collage dresses in silhouettes from different eras.


The asymmetric dresses ­ — one was part Forties dressing gown, part Seventies scoop neck ­ — were utterly charming accidents. Yes, the mix of knitwear, floaty chiffon, Liberty prints, wool bouclé and the odd fabric rosette was random at times, but van der Ham is evolving, and the more he refines his sartorial skills, the better this collection will become.


Meanwhile, Heikki Salonen focused on an urban silhouette, and worked a palette of blacks and grays for a collection that evoked the late Seventies and early Eighties Goth rock era. Long, slender coats, luxe bomber jackets and shift dresses with ragged hems made for an edgy — but surprisingly commercial — collection.

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