Mariuccia Mandelli’s fall inspiration was an unusual one — the Aeolian amphorae preserved at the archeological museum of Lipari. On the runway, that meant lots and lots of curves, from arched shoulders to prominently rounded-out riding pants. Mandelli worked her sculptured, at times tricky, touch on every imaginable garment, including a tissue-thin nylon anorak with protruding round shoulders and a draped silver cocktail dress with oversize, capped fur sleeves. Even classic wool coats and jackets got the big-shoulder treatment.

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