Tse has had a long history of collaborating with designers, but, this season, the firm decided to split the collection into two: one helmed by its in-house staffers, Jessica Groom and Dushane Noble, and the other by guest collaborator Jason Wu. While both collections found inspiration in a minimalist point of view, they skewed in two very different directions. Noble and Groom mined the pared-down aesthetics of Geoffrey Beene and Issey Miyake for a lineup anchored in pattern-making techniques — the sturdy wool coats fused with slouchy sweater sleeves, for instance. Wu, meanwhile, looked to the work of artist Robert Ryman, which gave his posh sportswear an abstract arty bent, best seen in the “spackle paint” treatments. And while he served up plenty of innovative knitwear, he was able to flex his creative muscles in other areas, too. Case in point: the beautifully draped chiffon dress with cascading pleats.

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