Albert Kriemler shepherded the Swiss firm’s double-face heritage down two new avenues — the Seventies and winter sports — with mostly fine results. His flared pantsuits, in offbeat shades like mustard and bordeaux, subtly evoked the decade and spun it forward thanks to slick and assured tailoring, and ultraluxurious fabrics. His three-piece suits, with a vest-cum-bodysuit tucked into the high-waist flares, were terrific, especially in glen checks and houndstooth. Also in this chic, clean-lined vein were Sgt. Pepper jackets and coats in leather or camel hair, some with fur-lined hoods. The winter-sports elements proved tricky at times, with drawstrings cluttering up otherwise pristine double-face parkas and anoraks, and bulbous, quilted sleeves weighing down others.
Kriemler is a top-notch designer in the minimalist vein, but his collection seemed a tad all over the map. Case in point was the Rorschach-like prints. Viewed horizontally, the blotches actually depict a stunning winter mountain scene reflected in a lake. Worn vertically, they were more disturbing than calm.