Once again Karl Lagerfeld looked no further than the man in the mirror for inspiration for his collection. And who could blame him?
The black jacket, starched white shirt and skinny pants uniform has provided a reliable, if not groundbreaking, formula for his strongest collections, which now include this show. It amounted to a jacket-and-pants story divided between tailored tops with pronounced collars and peplums and slick, shiny bottoms poured like liquid patent leather down the legs. Worn with a white turtleneck, the look had a modern-day Beethoven flourish.
The lacquered legs remained constant throughout, with a few deviations into secretary skirts, leaving the black-and-white jackets and dresses as the main creative canvas. Most were neatly tailored close to the body and zipped up the front, with the collars and coattails subject to various proportion plays and decorative treatments. A boxy leather style worn over a crisp white shirt and a soft silk jacket that revealed a silk camisole offered a nice variation on the jackets, which got a bit repetitive, and were also reimagined as shirts, tunic dresses, and eventually evening attire. There, the folding technique that cupped the bust failed to flatter on silk dresses, but Lagerfeld recovered with a string of embellished beauties: embroidered turtlenecks that fell into light chiffon trails.