Mariuccia Mandelli’s Asian trek wasn’t obvious from the start, even though all the models sported bluntly cropped bowl-cut coiffures. She opened with a trio of girls in oversize comforterlike puffers. But then came the swingy wool coat with triple-peaked pagoda shoulders — and the tightly pleated dresses and jumpsuits that read less Fortune-y and more paper lantern section at Pearl River — and loosely draped trousers inspired by Thai fisherman pants. Clearly, Mandelli is mad for the Far East, though she mixed in moments of provocative sexuality, too. Unfortunately, that cocktail, which included a barely there gown, simply didn’t click.

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