No deep thoughts decoding needed here. From the get-go — a pin-striped jacket done as a wrap dress — it was obvious that Massimiliano Giornetti’s fall collection for Ferragamo was a thematic trip to the Eighties. “But there is no nostalgia,” he told WWD before the show. “It’s more the desire to get back to an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic.”

His take on the age-old power woman archetype certainly appealed to the glamorous, grown-up side of the genre. It was a rather classic approach, anchored in graphic black-and-white and men’s wear with an emphasis on square-ish tailoring, pinstripes, houndstooth and herringbone that came large and small on suits and printed silk dresses. Much of it was truly boardroom appropriate — trenchcoats, cropped trousers and pencil skirts that were, at times, matched head to toe, shoes and bags included. Such highly coordinated styling and what looked like a few shoulder pads diluted Giornetti’s nostalgia-free stance. There were, indeed, some period pieces in the mix. What Giornetti did best was take overtly masculine motifs and make them feminine, even seductive when it came to the plunging silk blouses and draped skirts. He also found an updated way to do Eighties that can be worn realistically, outside of a strictly fashion environment.

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