With inspirations ranging from Ingmar Bergman to Arne Jacobsen and Hans Christian Andersen, the Sportmax design team might have been thinking chilly Scandinavia. Not that one could really tell, save for the patterned knits and the series of embroidered and spangly dresses, skirts and blouses that vaguely evoked Andersen’s fairy-tale world. Fall was really about the age-old narrative between the sexes, served here with a heavy dose of tough chic. For every feminine look — a matronly tweed suit with a black patent peplum add-on or those flowy layered slips — there was ample tailoring that took its cue from men’s wear: loose, Garbo-esque trousers and boxy, mannish coats in herringbone tweeds and plaids. But the collection ultimately fell flat in its aggressive bid for edge.

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