With a snowy backdrop and runway, designer Pierre Morisset sent his models marching into battle with all sorts of military riffs; the gold buttoned topcoats and harnesses and collars padded to resemble flotation devices pushed the sentiment further. The women’s looks leaned toward austere with high collars, fitted bodices and slim cropped legs, while the men’s wear was structured as in a stiff wool pullover or wax-coated jeans in the brand’s signature rounded leg shape.

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