Inspired by artist Jaap De Vries’ “Cutting Table” piece, which features an abstract painting on cut aluminum, Nicole and Michael Colovos took a slice-and-dice approach to their Helmut Lang collection. Their version of the season’s popular maxidress was lean and wrapped around the body, with a high slit done on an angle. A skirt, cut up the side, showcased a leather insert beneath. This was all about proportion play — “chopping,” as the Colovoses called it, to create angular hems and asymmetry. And they worked the softer side of the motif, too: On a paper-thin shirt, a sleeve was cut off and replaced with languid drapes. The designers also introduced a hardware theme that gave the lineup a cheeky edge. In addition to the hammered metal embroidery on dresses and utilitarian D-ring accents on tough-chic outerwear, they fashioned tiny closures in the shape of barbell piercings in lieu of buttons.

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