Jonny Johansson was an in a experimental mood this season. He took “the body in art” as the theme for the collection, citing Hans Bellmer as an inspiration. But Johansson is no Rei Kawakubo, and unleashed an exercise in proportion manipulations that often resulted in tortured-looking clothes. Stiff shoe leather was employed for coats and skirts with large belts cinching the models’ waists. A dress was made of flesh-toned orthopedic corsetry, while pants and coats displayed incongruous, random darts and tucks. Still, when it comes to cool denim and sportswear, this Swedish company is inventive and cool enough to avoid trickery. To wit: The few denim pieces in the show were much more approachable, as in slouchy dungarees with large black shoulder straps, or elongated jackets and pants peppered with industrial grommets.

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