Erdem Moralioglu, known for his unabashedly feminine fashions, challenged himself to create something darker and more potent this season — and even a little kinky. With daring art patrons of yore in mind — Peggy Guggenheim being one — the designer paraded his fall collection in the White Cube gallery in Bermondsey, adding industrial Latex to tweeds and other fabrics. The lacquered looks, strict silhouettes and cubic heels gave a tough, modernist gloss to his classic tubular shift dresses and cocoon coats. Black lace crept over printed cocktail numbers, taming their sweetness. “This time I wanted it to feel very strong,” Moralioglu said backstage. “I like the idea of mixing the wrong with the right.” Kudos to him for moving outside his comfort zone.


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