Erdem Moralioglu, known for his unabashedly feminine fashions, challenged himself to create something darker and more potent this season — and even a little kinky. With daring art patrons of yore in mind — Peggy Guggenheim being one — the designer paraded his fall collection in the White Cube gallery in Bermondsey, adding industrial Latex to tweeds and other fabrics. The lacquered looks, strict silhouettes and cubic heels gave a tough, modernist gloss to his classic tubular shift dresses and cocoon coats. Black lace crept over printed cocktail numbers, taming their sweetness. “This time I wanted it to feel very strong,” Moralioglu said backstage. “I like the idea of mixing the wrong with the right.” Kudos to him for moving outside his comfort zone.

 

Erdem Moralioglu, known for his unabashedly feminine fashions, challenged himself to create something darker and more potent this season — and even a little kinky. With daring art patrons of yore in mind — Peggy Guggenheim being one — the designer paraded his fall collection in the White Cube gallery in Bermondsey, adding industrial Latex to tweeds and other fabrics. The lacquered looks, strict silhouettes and cubic heels gave a tough, modernist gloss to his classic tubular shift dresses and cocoon coats. Black lace crept over printed cocktail numbers, taming their sweetness. “This time I wanted it to feel very strong,” Moralioglu said backstage. “I like the idea of mixing the wrong with the right.” Kudos to him for moving outside his comfort zone.

 

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