“Russian doll meets James Bond,” is how Daniella Issa Helayel described her collection — a fashion “journey from Moscow to Beijing.” She stuck with the form-fitting jersey dresses that have become her signature, executing them in rich paisley prints, some worn with babushka-style head scarves. While those prints might have had a folksy feel, the designer telegraphed glamour via luxurious fur hats by Stephen Jones, and velvet leggings worn under dresses. For evening, she mined the more ornate side of the East, sending out glam A-line and sleek floor-length dresses in embroidered duck-egg satin, gold lace and black velvet. After the show, Helayel confirmed that later this year she will be opening her first store in São Paulo, Brazil, and is looking for retail space in London.

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