This somber, androgynous collection conjured the oppressive mood of “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.” Padding, straps, and PVC all played a starring role and there was no room for the pretty or the quaint. PVC top-and-trouser combinations were rigid and looked painful to wear. Thick, padded vests were reminiscent of those worn by L.A.P.D. dog handlers. There were some bright spots, however. An orange waffle knit sweater was roomy and cozy, while a sparkly herringbone pattern on skirts added some much-needed levity and glamour.

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