This neat, tailored collection was packed with men’s wear fabrics — and felt tomboyish and playful. Long double-breasted wool coats and tweed jackets were tossed jauntily over narrow corduroy or velvet trousers, while pantsuits had a subtle tie-dyed effect. The colors were bright and upbeat: mustard or bottle green corduroys, purple tweed overcoats, and olive green and cobalt blue color-blocked knits. The eveningwear, however, was all over the place — one moment, a green velvet trouser-and-blouse combination and the next, a transparent, shimmery gown topped with a mannish jacket. The Paul Smith girl is clearly more about daytime drama than prime time.

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