“Understated urbanwear” was a phrase used in the Blumarine show notes. But judging by the high-voltage impact of the lineup, something was definitely lost in translation. There was little subtlety in Anna Molinari’s bold collection, which lacked focus, but nonetheless provided a zany visual feast and an ultimate testimony to the concept of sensory overload. She started out with promise, offering several fun Mongolian fur coats in cupcake colors worn with white ski suits, and a functional gray double-breasted coat and suit. The wearability index quickly took a nosedive, though, when the designer took a shining (pun intended) to full-on metallics, including a stiff silver PVC trenchcoat, a shiny pink denim jacket with a matching pair of slim trousers, as well as several ensembles fully embellished with iridescent beads. Along the way, Molinari had a bout of spotted fever with head-to-toe leopard prints. Then came the “urban” looks, which included a turquoise puffer jacket teamed with silver leggings, fully sequined in silver except for the word “Jolie” repeated all over, graffiti style in neon colors. They contributed to the sense that the clothes were destined for a special edition Barbie, though it’s possible that the even world’s most famous doll would have second thoughts about some of the designs.

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