For the company’s first women’s collection in seven years, designer Paola Toscano dug into the archive — which is heavy on men’s wear — to extract the Dirk Bikkembergs DNA and apply it to her new designs. “This is a woman who is an athlete, a strong character,” Toscano said at the presentation. For her, that meant functional clothes with a sporty feel and many feminine touches, including a floor-length, gold georgette shirtdress, a form-fitting cocktail number in a striking pattern reminiscent of a pixilated image and a striped, cinched top teamed with a pleated skirt in a heavy wool more typically used for coats. Several looks drew attention to the waist with beltlike detachable leather peplums that added an edge to the otherwise wearable lineup.

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