A single idea can sometimes inform every silhouette the designer chooses to create. In Giorgio Armani’s playful Emporio Armani show, it came via his new pants: slim-cut, cuffed and ending just at the knee, like knickers. He had them in nearly every exit, which could have easily resulted in a tricky moment, but they worked, mainly because Armani designed many charming clothes around them. Some had a bohemian allure with a slight touch of Twenties romance, including rich-looking velvet coats or dresses and colorful fuzzy fur coats topping dresses in paintbrushlike prints (over those knee pants). Armani also tuned up his use of dots and flowers — taffeta roses made their way on black or purple velvet dresses, and camellias embellished some of the evening looks (over those pants again). The styling added a sense of whimsy to the look, or, as the show notes put it, “fun little touches of pure fantasy.”

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