Gabriele Colangelo had two inspirations for his Genny collection, his second at the house, which is keen on a comeback. The first was Georgia O’Keeffe’s orchids, which provided the color scheme of deep purple, burgundy and murky blue, as well as prints on filmy chiffon dresses and an interesting, spongy organza jacquard used on skirts. But backstage Colangelo said he also drew upon Gianni Versace’s days at Genny in the Eighties for what the designer called “a contrast of masculinity,” obvious in the nicely tailored coats and velvet tuxedos with a Seventies slink factor. The best looks were the simplest, such as classic suits with flared pants and fitted blazers, but the creative reworkings of tuxes as dresses with sheer tulle backs were better in theory.

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