Designers Frederico Piaggi and Stefano Citron face a challenging task at Gianfranco Ferré. The design duo is expected to move the brand forward and update the late founder’s DNA when it’s still unclear how new owner Paris Group plans to develop the beleaguered business. Amid this sense of uncertainty, they put together a collection of architectural, often asymmetric looks, which had some appeal in the way they were executed with a modernist hand.

According to the show notes, Piaggi and Citron looked to Helmut Newton’s iconic photography to inspire clothes that “depict a femininity of graphic vigor” — a notion that became clear with the first few looks, including a black jumpsuit with leather inserts at the elbows, and a black leather dress with a liquidlike feel. Picking up on this season’s Milan trend, they also mixed textures, including a lavender coat with fur sleeves. At times, the silhouettes felt strict and severe, but the duo lightened the mood by combining more graphic silhouettes with soft details like flowing pleated georgette details that peeked out from underneath constructed dresses.

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