“A new sobriety” is how Mariuccia Mandelli described this season’s collection. Her tailored silhouettes in rich autumnal shades were indeed relatively devoid of the outré styling tricks that have distracted from the clothes in some of her past lineups. Several of the outfits here evoked a Seventies-era Lauren Hutton, including a dark denim coat with contrasting topstitching that was paired with a burnt orange dress. Other pieces could have worked for Sean Young’s retro look in “Blade Runner” — think extra-wide peaked shoulders on a cream-colored dress with linear quilting details or a black leather coat with fuzzy Mongolian fur sleeves.

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