No one would mistake Consuelo Castiglioni for a traditionalist, but, by Marni standards, her fall collection was as close to conventional notions of everyday clothes as it gets. It was a strong lineup, grounded in a singular, outerwear shape born out of a classic — a boxy coat with a loosely belted drop waist and prominent utility pockets — that put a vaguely Sixties spin on the look. Variations came in simple camel and gray, as well as deluxe exotic treatments, like lacquered python, thick, slick patent leather and plaid furs. There were sleeveless versions and some nifty belted stoles with fur collars and big pockets.
Yet even a sober Marni moment is still a little punch drunk, as it should be. Castiglioni couched the season’s conservative spirit in a graphic motif that amplified the clothes with a bold color scheme — red, baby blue and nude worked in solids and clashing color blocks. At the same time, an undercurrent of Orientalism coursed through the collection, overstated in matching illustrated floral prints and black-and-gold jacquards, but controlled on the finale of chic black looks with brazen embroideries on the sleeves. Each girl wore white tights and Kabuki-inspired shoes — platform Mary Janes with gold tipped toes.