From the bubble gum opening to the finale that fizzled — Naomi Campbell, the caboose on a train with no steam — Roberto Cavalli’s fall collection had the mystifying feeling of a REM-cycle dream. Don’t pinch yourself — it was real.
A degree of youth and able-bodied maintenance has always been implicit in Cavalli’s animal-printed va-va-voom. Usually it’s executed with a significant level of designer sophistication that indicates the clothes are in fact for grown-ups, who will need a sense of humor to appreciate the score of short, baby-doll bubble dresses, done in bright pink and green sequins with harness backs that opened the show. From there, the animalia — prints, furs and exotic skins — and sparkle stayed, while hemlines fell and proportions ballooned into boxy tops, long ball skirts and drop-waist tunics worn over flared pants. Perhaps an exotic riff on grungy glamour was intended in the sequined T-shirt paired with an awkward full-length fur skirt? Hard to tell.