Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane’s Versus was, as Kane put it post-show, “young, cool, underground, ghetto, rebellious teenager, angry, tie-dye, acid fabrics, the colors, cocoon shapes, sweetheart, it’s quite trippy.” That’s a lot to take in, but Versace and her collaborator for the secondary line were able to pull it together effectively with a sense of grittiness and a youthful spirit, just like London’s Camden neighborhood which informed the lineup.

The show kicked off with a few looks that mixed fabrics with leather (a Milan trend of the season), including a plum coat with leather sleeves and circular pockets. The designers then moved into edgier territory with a short dress with a laced bodice and a pleated skirt, or a laced jacket and leather pants. These pieces brought the right touch of punk to the clothes, without ever losing the collection’s girly sensibility. Along the way, Kane was respectful of Versus’ original DNA in the color scheme of purples and blues, and prints — including a purple ornamental pattern for a top with a pleated skirt — that felt very Versace, but with a more youthful edge, which is just how Versus should be.

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