Beautiful! The stunning collection Joseph Altuzarra showed on Saturday night displayed the designer’s growing range and confidence to push himself into new territory with draped and body-conscious silhouettes, strong outerwear and new textural plays. Inspired by Seventies Italian comic character Corto Maltese and his penchant for traveling to exotic locales, Altuzarra looked to Indian prints and North African tribes, and combined terrific tailoring with an abundance of heavenly knits, using coins for embellishment along with pom-pom trims and fringe.
His first look was a mohair toggle coat with vibrantly printed sleeves that referenced Indian fabric. The look evolved with actual gold and silver coins dangling from a wide belt, on a printed blouse, the hem of a white knit skirt with tiered fringe or a black belted dress that had a Berber feel. It was a bold overstatement, which ultimately paid off. His outerwear was another hit thanks to a black-and-white motif that loosely resembled Navajo patterns along with several desirable shearlings and a cool black peacoat with a zipped-open fur-lined collar that gave the collection a military vibe with just the right touch.
Altuzarra said during a preview that his reference points were from his own young archive — including fall 2010’s “Edward Scissorhands” collection with its structured tailoring and alluring sexy dresses. He had plenty of those here, most notably the beautiful final three exits, which highlighted a dress draped in a way that loosely recalls a beautiful sari or the exuberance of a Bollywood blockbuster.