Graduating to a runway show, as Bibhu Mohapatra did this season, is a big step. Not only because it generally indicates increasing interest in a designer but because the runway demands more from a collection. This might not have been the season for him to make the leap. His inspiration — the early 20th-century Chinese opera “The White Haired Girl” — was most obvious in the daywear, where there were some finely crafted pieces, such as an ivory peplum dress with a red sash. But overall, the collection lacked clarity. Mohapatra should have showed less of the bulky diamond furs and more of the gowns, which are still clearly the designer’s strong suit.

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