Navy and black, a tried-and-true tonal pairing, was utterly compelling at the opening of Carolina Herrera’s collection. She nailed it — a beautiful display of regal elegance subdued by color, which was quite a commitment, too. The first dozen looks came in shades of deep indigo with black accents. Luxed-up fabrics, such as knits with feather and fur details, blurred the line between traditional day- and eveningwear, and had a modern flexibility. For example, a turtleneck sweater was sewn with broadtail details on the front and worn with an embroidered wool pencil skirt, and a wispy embroidered silk dress peaked out from under a cozy mélange knit coat.  

From there, Herrera broke the darkness, creating a divide in the collection. Heavy-handed abstract prints by artist Joe Duke, many of which were painted onto the fabrics, seemed to get lost in translation along the way. More subtle yet effective were the tweaked proportions, specifically cropped tops worn over high-wasted bottoms. That minor adjustment updated Herrera’s signature polish and boosted her cross-generational appeal.

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